Chapter two is devoted to the discussions of controversies about women's exposure of calves, arms and necks, the boyish look in mainstream fashion, women's adoption of knickerbockers, and the extravagance in women's fashion appearing in primary sources published between 19. Fashion theories are introduced in chapter one to enhance the understanding of fashion adoption and its changing meanings. Controversial issues are categorized into three themes including body exposure, femininity versus masculinity, and extravagance versus thrift and conservation. The main focus of this research is to understand social conventions and the changing meanings of fashion reflected in the accounts of controversies in relation to women's lives during the period. This dissertation is based on the accounts of controversies about American women's fashion appearing in The New York Times and some magazines published between 19.
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